SILVER: Sterling? Plated? What the Heck is "Sterling Plated"??!

Sterling Silver - Casting Grain

Silver is a beautiful metal, one of the three precious metals (besides gold and platinum).  In its pure form, it's very soft and therefore doesn't work for jewelry---it would bend easily and stones would fall out of settings, for example.  So it is alloyed with other metals, primarily copper, to give it strength while retaining the beauty of the silver.

I was looking at jade on etsy this morning, as I have a jade necklace I want to list and I have no idea how to price it.  And I saw some things that are really NOT right, and I wanted to let you know!  It involves sterling silver, and plated items:

• STERLING SILVER - marked 925 or .925 or sometimes "sterling".  This is pure silver that is mixed with an alloy to harden it, so it can be worn as jewelry.  The "925" means it is verified 92.5% pure silver, and 7.5% alloy.  It is almost always alloyed with copper.  Sometimes other metals are used, such as platinum and germanium (Argentium sterling silver) in an attempt to reduce tarnish. Sterling Silver, as a precious metal, is considered fine jewelry.

• SILVER PLATE - is NOT "sterling silver" in any way, shape or form!  There is NO SUCH THING as "sterling silver plated" or, what I saw today, "925 Sterling Silver Plated"!  That is totally a lie, and used to make buyers think that the item is somehow as nice as actual sterling silver.  There is an ENORMOUS difference between silver plate and sterling silver.  Silver plate is any metal (mystery metals) that is plated with actual silver.  It could be plated nickel, brass, tin, plastic, anything---but it is not in any way related to Sterling Silver.  AVOID SELLERS who claim this, because if you can't trust them to be honest with this small thing, forget trusting them about anything!

  

  Simple Explanation via ChemWiki

• Silver plated items are nothing more than any metal that has a VERY thin layer of silver applied via an electroplating process.   It's not "sterling silver" that is electroplated---that is impossible!  Sterling ONLY refers to something that is silver throughout---SOLID----and not any metal that is plated with silver.  Sterling ALWAYS is hallmarked as sterling to assure you that it is, in fact, pure precious sterling silver.  This silver plate is costume jewelry.

• Silver Tone - this is just any silvery metal, could be lead or tin or anything.  Costume jewelry.

• VERMEIL - Vermeil is sterling silver with real gold, usually 18k gold,  bonded to the sterling, and the gold layer is quite thick.  It is hallmarked 925 to indicate the underlying sterling silver metal.   It is not electroplated, but layered and bonded to the sterling. Good quality vermeil will last a lifetime, meaning the gold will not wear off.   You will usually pay a little more for vermeil than plain sterling because of the gold content, but you know you are getting real sterling, and not a thin, gold plated mystery metal item.  Vermeil jewelry is good quality fine jewelry and worth looking at for investment. In order to qualify as Vermeil, it has to have a minimum of 2.5 microns of  at least 10k gold.  Normal gold (or silver) plating has far less gold, at .175 microns.

Just to mention: Sterling Silver is always ALWAYS 92.5% pure silver.  It doesn't matter if you buy something from Tiffany's or something from Target, if it is marked "925" it is Sterling Silver---the SAME no matter where you get it.  The actual silver (the metal itself) from Tiffany's is not "better" or any different than from anywhere else!  Just something to keep in mind when shopping.

And please remember:  ALL STERLING SILVER WILL TARNISH.  It doesn't matter if it cost a fortune or not, is old or new, from Europe or Thailand, if it is sterling silver, it WILL tarnish!  Rhodium is applied to sterling to HELP PREVENT tarnishing, but it doesn't stop it.  So whenever you see claims that this item "will never tarnish" because of blah blah blah, that is FALSE.  It will tarnish!  It just depends on external factors, such as the environment, the air, air pollution, chemicals it touches, even a person's body chemistry which also changes from day to day.  BUT it's very easy to clean (just swipe with a silver polishing cloth, and polish with the polishing side to also HELP prevent future tarnishing) and it's like brand new!  EASY. 

What's the Difference Between Topaz and Quartz?

Topaz and Quartz are both common minerals, and both are used in jewelry.  They both come in a variety of colors, and both are beautiful.  But what's the difference between these two minerals?

First off, Topaz is harder than Quartz.  Topaz has a Mohs hardness rating of 8, and Quartz is a 7.  There are a variety of colors of quartz, known by their common gemstone names, as follows:

• Rock Crystal - or clear crystal quartz; can have inclusions, such as rutile or tourmaline; the most common type of quartz
• Smoky Quartz - dark brown to grey to black; frequently included with rutile needles
• Amethyst - purple, deep to light, violet; the most valuable of all quartz gems.
• Ametrine - contains both amethyst (purple) and citrine (golden yellow)
• Citrine - light yellow to deep golden brown; most citrine is heated amethyst.  If heated, has a reddish tint.
• Lemon Quartz - sparkling golden "margarita" color, natural.  One of the very few genuine "fruity" quartz stones.
• Prasiolite - leek green; NOT natural, always heated amethyst or light yellow quartz
• Rose Quartz - light pink to strong pink; cloudy
• Aventurine - green; red-brown; golden-brown; sparkling inclusions. Green often sold as "jade"
• Blue Quartz - turbid (cloudy) blue; never clear.  Caused by crocidolite fibers
• Tigers Eye - brown with gold "ray of light" on surface
• Hawk's Eye, Cat's Eye - White, gray, green, yellow, brown Cat's Eye; blue-grey to blue-green in Hawk's Eye; like Tiger's Eye, caused by reflection of light by parallel fibers, needles, or channels.

Chrysocolla

• Chalcedony - translucent quartz in blue,white, grey; bloodstone (dark green with red spots)
• Agate - many colors included banded, onyx
• Carnelian - red to orange to brown translucent stone
• Chrysoprase - rich green, very often used to misrepresent jade
• Chrysocolla Chalcedony, marketed as "Gem Silica":  relatively rare, blue to blue-green, opaque to near transparent material; the most expensive type of chalcedony.

Topaz is found in a variety of transparent to translucent colors: clear (colorless), white, pale blue, light green, yellow, yellowish brown, pink, or red.  It is a very hard stone which makes it wonderful for all types of jewelry.  Blue topaz is always irradiated to achieve the beautiful Swiss, Sky, and London Blue colors that are coveted.


I read a handy tip to tell if a stone is Topaz or not:

• Clean the stone and dry it.
• Using a rod or something small, place a drop of water on the surface of the stone.
• If it's Topaz, or a stone that is harder than an 8 on the Mohs scale, the drop will just sit there.
• If it's Quartz, or anything softer than an 8, the drop of water will disperse over the stone.
• The harder the stone, the more rounded the drop of water!

Smoky Quartz

Generally, a topaz gemstone is more valuable than quartz.  An example of this is Smoky Quartz---many times, a seller will call it Smoky Topaz, but it is not.  There is no such gemstone as "Smoky Topaz".  It's actually a dark brown variety of Quartz!

So-Called "Tanzanite Blue Quartz"

Another example is Blue Topaz v. Blue Quartz.  Blue Topaz is much more valuable, clear and beautiful.  It is one of the most popular colored gemstones in the marketplace.  It has a striking luster and a range of beautiful blues that rival the very expensive Aquamarine.  But Blue Topaz is not a naturally-occurring gemstone.  The process used to achieve the deep blues is controversial (I've written about this previously) because it involves radioactivity.  However, recent testing reveals that Blue Topaz gemstones are perfectly safe to handle.

Blue Quartz with Tourmaline

Blue Quartz is quartz that contains blue minerals such as tourmaline, is blue because of the "Rayleigh scattering effect" caused by tiny inclusions, or a coarse grained, massive, macrocrystalline form of blue quartz similar to aventurine quartz that is also colored by embedded blue minerals, like dumortierite.

Blue Quartz varies in color from grey to deep blue, like navy blue.  Natural blue quartz is always colored by inclusions of other minerals.  Here (above right) is a picture of a double terminated quartz from Brazil.  It is deeply colored blue by inclusions of fine needles of indigolite, a blue tourmaline. From the Jenipapo Mine, Itanga, Minas Gerais, Brazil.

Chalcedony is a natural blue quartz.  Chalcedony blue quartz is milky, cloudy, not crystal clear.  

But what is the crystal clear "Blue Quartz" that is found in strands of faceted briolettes, or all kinds of jewelry?  Sometimes sellers call it "London Blue Quartz" or "Sky Blue Quartz" which are actually names of TOPAZ gemstones, not quartz.  Another example of "creative marketing" on the part of sellers, or vendors who supply sellers.  Actually, these are not gemstones at all----these are glass, sometimes called "Fused quartz".  The rough can be purchased with names such as "Blue Sapphire", "Cornflower Blue", "Electric Blue Topaz", "Cobalt", and more.  These can be seen HERE.  These have a Mohs rating of about 5 to 6.5, the same as window glass.

Hydrothermal quartz is synthetic quartz that is grown in a lab.  According to syntheticgems.org it has a Mohs rating of 7.  I have contacted some manufacturers of hydrothermal quartz, and I haven't found anyone who makes this for jewelry---it is strictly for industrial applications (grown for quartz watches, electronics, etc.).  So I'm not sure if I quite believe that so-called "hydrothermal quartz" exists in the jewelry world because I haven't found any proof of that.  I do know that "hydroquartz" is absolutely GLASS though, just like "fused Quartz" as I mentioned already.

"Mystic" Blue Quartz

Sometimes, clear "rock" quartz is coated with a blue "mystic" film to give it a blue tint with rainbow colors.  This is also not really "blue quartz" and the mystic coating will scratch off.  This is found often on etsy, and to me it looks weird up close---like the color has rubbed off on the facets or something.  It almost always looks like this.  And this picture is for a strand of new mystic quartz briolettes----imagine what they look like after wearing awhile!


Personally, I wouldn't buy any sort of "blue quartz" that is crystal clear.  I assume that it is glass.  I have no reason to think otherwise.  In the picture of the "Tanzanite Quartz" above, you can see tiny bubbles---a sure sign of glass.  One of the largest (if not THE largest) supplier of this "hydro blue quartz" is Alibaba in China, and we all know that they sell a lot of fakes and glass gems.  If I want a beautiful blue gem, I will buy Topaz or my favorite, Aquamarine.  These are real for sure!  And they have a value! 

So, buyer beware! 

Steampunk Engraved Keys

Incredible Key by Steamgadget!

I was reading the Breaking Bad subreddit this morning and clicked on an image link... and another picture caught my eye, which led me to this most AMAZING engraved key I've ever seen!  I don't know this etsy seller (steamgadget), and I hope he's okay with me posting his image of his work of ART, but I just had to say this.  This engraving work he does (by hand!  with chisels!!) on regular brass keys is breathtaking! AND the key is still fully functional!  He even shows the process to achieve this beautiful key.  It's amazing to scroll down and see that!

HERE is his etsy shop.  (He says more will be added---I hope so!)

HERE are some of his works on imgur. 

I love some Steampunk pieces and I'm not a fan of others (no more goggles or gas masks please!!).   But I've never seen anything quite like this hand-engraved key by steamgadget -- it's so fantastic!  The handmade (and engraved) bail is sterling silver, as are the two plaques on the sides of this particular key.  He hand-fabricated that rose in the center of the cross out of sterling as well. 

On imgur he shows another key with sterling silver on one side, like a swirling wave, that I covet!  Steamgadget, you are a true artist!  Bravo! 

Herkimer Diamond Rings...a Reminder

Just a reminder to anyone who might be considering buying a "Herkimer Diamond" ring or ring set on etsy:

A "Herkimer Diamond" isn't a diamond at all.    It's just a quartz crystal, like any other quartz crystal except that it has "natural facets"----double points on the ends and 6 natural facets on each point and in the center section, so 18 total.  It never varies from that---always 18 facets, double terminated quartz crystal.  The fact that this is a NATURAL clear crystal that looks like it's faceted is why it was called a "diamond".  It does NOT "mimic diamonds in their sparkle and appearance"--- they were called "diamonds" because they are found faceted, as if they were faceted by hand.  They do not "sparkle" like a diamond---they sparkle like a piece of quartz, which is what it is.  The name "Herkimer Diamond"  is a misnomer.  It's NOT a diamond.  It is just a clear Quartz crystal.   They are VERY old crystals---formed about 500 MILLION years ago.   Herkimers always look like this:

Herkimer "Diamond" Quartz

Herkimer Quartz

Sometimes there are bubbles or inclusions inside, although usually they are crystal clear.  Here is another example of a Herkimer, but with inclusions inside (note the natural facets) ------------------->>>>


Here is a quote about the history of the crystals, courtesy of ericaweiner.com:

"Despite their diamond misnomer, Herkimers are are actually six-sided, double-terminated quartz crystals and are relatively valueless.  Nevertheless, unscrupulous jewelers during the Civil War often tried to pass off these stones as the more precious variety."

So this fraud is nothing new!

NOT a Herkimer!! 

There are some etsy sellers and others online who have placed the actual Herkimer crystal, unaltered, into a setting.  That's GREAT!  That is a true "eco friendly" ring.  And obviously the setting is hand-made to custom-fit the Herkimer Quartz.  I'm ALL for that!

A REAL Herkimer Quartz in Custom Setting---courtesy herkimerdiamondquartz.com, $59

HOWEVER,  I've seen an online seller (more than one) who is selling generic faceted stones (round, oval, pear, square, etc.)  that look just like CZ set into sterling silver settings, like I've seen many times all over the internet.  They are claiming these machine-faceted stones are "Herkimer Diamonds"!  NOT!!!!!

NOT a Herkimer!  Just Quartz maybe.

Fellow Etsians, please know this:  a human-faceted stone set into a ring is probably  NOT a Herkimer.  If it is not a CZ then it would be just a faceted clear quartz, if indeed it is quartz.  It could be glass...!

It doesn't matter what someone says on etsy or elsewhere:  if someone claims to "own the mine" where the stones are discovered; if someone claims to "set or facet the stones themselves"  or WHATEVER they are saying, why would you blindly believe that?  Especially if they are not being truthful when they are obviously selling some other stone (or crystal, glass, CZ, who knows what it is) that is faceted and saying it's a "Herkimer Diamond" when we ALL know that:

1. A Herkimer Diamond is NOT a diamond.
2. A Herkimer Diamond should be called what it is, a Herkimer Quartz crystal
3. Herkimers are NOT faceted by anyone other than nature. 
4. The beauty of a Herkimer is that natural "faceting" and double points, as seen above.
5. Anything that is faceted into an oval or pear or round brilliant can be anything!  It is most likely something else, such as CZ, or just plain clear quartz perhaps.
6. Herkimers are not rare.  They are found in great abundance and anyone can go "mining" for them; i.e., splitting open a rock. No actual "mining" involved. 
7. These quartz stones would be appreciated for their natural beauty---NEVER altered or cut.
8. Herkimers are always "faceted" by Mother Nature, 18 facets, double terminated. ALWAYS.
9. Most of all, there is nothing particularly special about a Herkimer----it doesn't sparkle more than any other clear quartz.  Some sources say they're slightly harder (Mohs 7.5) than other Quartz (Mohs 7) but the ones I had tested are Mohs 7.

Herkimers in Dolostone

Etsy sellers are asking premium prices for their supposed "Herkimer Diamond" rings that they "faceted" into generic gemstone shapes and "set into ring settings" and the sad fact is this:  you, the buyer, are getting "taken."  But don't just take my word for it.  Do your homework!  Find out what a Herkimer Diamond actually is!!  Google is your friend.  Educate yourselves.  It's AWFUL to read the etsy seller's hundreds upon hundreds of feedback comments when I know the buyers have no clue what they received!  Is ignorance really bliss?  I don't think so.  A seller is profiting off the ignorance of people, and it's not right.

A Word About "Russian" Diamonds, CZ, Etc.

Before I get into discussing the etsy and ebay seller's items I discovered, I want to mention this:  There is a company, an honorable company, named "Russian Brilliants" that sells simulated diamonds, or CZ.  They are forthright in their product descriptions and claims!  They offer not only top-quality stones, but the finest CUT stones.  Bravo to them!  They even have a page that better outlines what I've been trying to say here.  Please take a moment and read it---about avoiding the false claims and hype.  Written by an attorney, it discusses the FTC violations regarding so-called "bonded" stones and "coated" CZ and creative marketing (at the buyer's expense).  VERY important reading!  Honesty is so refreshing! 
 ===================================================================

I was looking at rings on etsy (I like to shop too!) and came across yet another seller who is offering so-called "created diamonds" or some sort of "Russian" stones.  They call them "Siberian Brilliant" stones which, when I googled it, seems to be a term that someone tried to trademark back in 2005 but the trademark didn't go through for one reason or another.  I found that term mentioned on a couple of discussion boards, with people who realized too late that it was just a CZ.   It seems that a "creative marketer" was selling these Siberian stones on ebay (still do) as well as on etsy (under a different seller name), and their ebay description is muddled.  What are they claiming... Is it a "created diamond"?  A CZ?  A CZ that is coated with a diamond, like an Asha stone? 

They seem to claim it's a diamond-coated or "bonded" CZ, as well as a lab-created one, and is ALSO made of other gemstones...whaaat??   Here is  description from their ebay site for a ring:

Siberian Brilliants are one of the finest Lab Created Diamond Bonded Gemstones available today, these stones are created using state of the art technology and are designed to have the exact visual properties of natural diamonds, unlike most simulates these stones are made from the exact elements found in the finest natural gemstones including diamond.

This is a problem. (And I don't just mean the grammar and spelling issues! haha)   First, a CZ is a diamond simulant, not a lab-created diamond.  I've talked about this on my blog before---a CZ is grown in a lab, but that's not a lab-created diamond, just a lab-created CZ.  Second, all CZ have the "exact visual properties of natural diamonds" so there is nothing special there.  And third, only a real diamond (mined or created) is made from PURE CARBON, which would be the elements found in the stone. It's all a confusing mish-mash of marketing buzzwords that make no sense and are there just deceive.  (And the saddest part is if you read customers' feedback, they are ridiculously misled and fooled.)

The problem is, these "Siberian" stones are NOT diamond coated.  They claim they have a Mohs hardness of "9" but that would be impossible---IF it's diamond coated, it would be 10.  Sapphire has a Mohs rating of 9.  CZ has a Mohs rating of 8.5.  Only a Moissanite has a Mohs hardness of 9.5, and they aren't claiming these are Moissanite.  These Russian stones are just CZ, and have been sold for about 8 years under the guise of having the same "elements" as a real diamond.  Their claims go beyond "creative marketing" and I don't like that. 

I found this same ebay seller's facebook page, and their description on facebook is quite different---never really implying that this is a diamond-coated stone:

All Lab Created Stones are not alike, our Siberian Brilliant line of created Diamonds by Dymonite are not common C Z , they have been designed to have the exact visual characteristics and are cut to the exact new specifications set by GIA (Gem Institute of America) and are virtually impossible for anyone to distinguish from a natural Diamond without the use of standard and state of the art electronic Gemological equipment, the fact is on one will be able to tell the difference, not your Mother, your girlfriends your sister etc.. even you will believe that this is a Natural Diamond.

CZ Rough

Okay, so here they're saying that the stones are VISUALLY the same as a diamond, and unless tested by a gemologist, will fool everyone.  So that is definitely NOT a "created diamond" at all, but simply IS a CZ.   I love how they throw in the "GIA guidelines" (but only for cut specifications!) to make themselves sound very official.   But who or what is Dymonite?  A quick google search yielded some varied results:  a hard surface cleaner, a youtube karaoke singer, lots of video gamers who use that name (I think it's a character in a game), and finally their website about these CZ stones.  Unfortunately, the website seems to have been abandoned in 2010 without any products listed. 

I've seen online sellers using the term "Russian CZ" for at least 10-15 years, as if it's somehow a better stone than other CZ.  (For awhile before that, it was "French CZ"!  Because anything French is fancy!!)  It seems that the "Russian CZ" term has faded lately because everyone has figured out that scam.  So now online sellers are offering beautiful CZ rings as "Russian" created diamonds (dropping the CZ altogether), or tried to give them a trademarked name so it sounds "official" and "fancy" and somehow "superior" to a "regular CZ."

These so-called Russian stones are just regular CZ.  And the truth is:  CZ are BEAUTIFUL.  They've taken what appears to be high quality CZ (CZ comes in various grades, just like diamonds) and set them in 14k gold settings.  I think this is a FANTASTIC alternative to real diamonds; for a lot of people, diamonds are not ethical or eco-friendly and lots of people choose not to buy a "blood diamond", or simply don't buy into the De Beers hype and price fixing.  A CZ set in sterling silver is fabulous, but sterling tarnishes and needs upkeep (cleaning).  And a CZ that is set in solid gold will last FOREVER and will always look like a flawless diamond.  It's a great alternative to a diamond!  A PERFECT ring, I think.

Fabulous CZ Rings found on HSN, for well under $200

But please, do your research.  Look at the ACTUAL diamond-coated CZ stones (Asha is a great company) in person.  Look at a top quality CZ.  Decide on a stone size and cut.  Choose a beautiful setting.  But know what you are buying!  Just because a seller online says their stone is a "lab created diamond", doesn't make it true.  In fact, if they are saying that, most likely they are trying to defraud you.  They are using buzzwords and "shell game" tactics!  They are relying on uninformed buyers who are easily swayed by their marketing tactics.   There are real lab diamonds---they are TRUE diamonds, Mohs hardness of 10, will test as a diamond because it IS a diamond inside and out---but they are just as expensive as a "mined" stone.  They are very expensive stones, although they are truly eco-friendly.

If, for ethical reasons, you want a real created diamond, look at them in person.  Visit a reputable jeweler.  Or deal directly with the producers of actual lab diamonds---Gemesis for example.  Don't buy one from anyone on ebay!!  Or anyone making such false claims on etsy, sadly.   A $300-$400 two-carat solitaire ring set in solid gold is a CZ, nothing more, and not worth anywhere near that much.   Don't fall for the big claims by some random seller online that a stone is "coated" and that makes it a diamond.  You'll buy it, and take it to a jeweler who can do a quick test and tell you that it isn't a diamond at all, but is a CZ.  Now THAT I can guarantee!

What is "Zentrumite"? Vaseline Glass?

I saw a piece of jewelry today with a stone described as "Zentrumite".  It glows neon green under a black light, and is a pretty, pale green color in other lighting.   It looks sort of like Prehnite in the pictures I saw.

It's VERY pretty!   Zentrumite sounds like a mineral, sort of like dolomite or Prehnite. 

But what is it, really?

Vaseline Glass Beads--natural light

Well, after some research (thanks, google!) I've discovered that it's glass---Vaseline glass to be specific.  All Vaseline glass glows green.  A quick google search reveals that this trademarked Zentrumite is Vaseline glass that is made at the Zentrum Glass Company in Ohio.  They make glowing glass "jewels" for windows, stained glass, things like that.  They have a variety of glass options---blues, greens, reds and ambers.

Vaseline Glass--Black Light

What is Vaseline Glass?
Vaseline glass is yellow or greenish-yellow glass that contains uranium dioxide* as a colorant.  It's also called Uranium Glass.  The uranium content makes the glass fluoresce (glow) bright green under ultraviolet light.  Vaseline glass is a broad category that includes other glass categories:  it encompasses both pressed and blown glass manufactured from 1835 onward and includes  carnival, opalescent, stretch, satin, cased and cut glass.

Vaseline glass was first produced in 1835 in Bohemia, and first made in America in the 1840's by the Boston & Sandwich Glass Company.  It's heyday was the late 1880's through 1905.  After the start of World War II, the United States government curtailed the liberal use of uranium by glass companies.  In 1959, the government's ban was lifted, and since then several glass companies have produced contemporary Vaseline glass.

Vaseline Glass Collectors, Inc. (vaselineglass.org) defines it as follows: (1) it must be yellow or greenish-yellow by daylight; (2) it must fluoresce bright green under a black light; and (3) the glass must contain uranium dioxide (at least 2%).  

I googled "Vaseline glass faceted jewelry" and to my surprise, there is a LOT of this jewelry around, vintage and contemporary, on places like RubyLane and ebay. And on etsy too!  It's VERY pretty, looks like peridot sometimes, and makes some VERY beautiful and interesting jewelry pieces!  I like it a lot.

*My only thought though is....is uranium in glass SAFE?  Uranium Dioxide is radioactive---you can detect Vaseline glass (and Urania-glazed pottery) with a Geiger counter!  I searched around the net for awhile and it seems like the answer is.... it's sort of safe.  It's been tested, and although no one should polish or otherwise cause "dust" from this glass (don't breathe that in!), it's deemed "safe" for touching or wearing, I suppose.  HERE is a website that discusses the testing process, and the readings from a Geiger Counter on assorted glassware and jewelry.  BIG Geiger counter readings on some beads there. This scares me a bit.  I don't know, anything with Uranium.... may not be something I want touching my skin. 

Organic Gem Love: PEARLS

Crown Jewels of France

The pearl is the oldest known gem.  For many centuries, it was considered the most valuable of all gems.  But unlike other gems--which are minerals---pearls are organic, derived from oysters, clams and mussels.   So much history accompanies this stone that five months claim it as a birthstone - February, April, June (traditional), July and November.

Early cultures believed that a pearl was born when a single drop of rain fell from the heavens and became the heart of the oyster.  Pearls have been called the 'teardrops of the moon'.  Some believed that pearls were formed by the passage of angels through the clouds of heaven.  Over time, the pearl has become the symbol of purity and innocence, and pearls are often sewn into bridal gowns, or worn as jewelry by the bride.

Pearls are created when an oyster covers a foreign object, such as a grain of sand, with beautiful layers of nacre.  Long ago, it would take a search of thousands of oysters to find one pearl---so rare because they were created by chance.  Today, pearls are "cultured" by man.  Shell beads are inserted into the oyster and returned to the water, where layers of nacre cover this foreign object.  Most cultured pearls are produced in Japan.  In the South Pacific, larger oysters produce South Sea cultured pearls and Tahitian black cultured pearls, which are larger in size.  Freshwater pearls are cultured mostly in China, in mussels.

The quality of pearls is judged by the "orient"---the soft iridescence caused by the refraction of light by the layers of nacre, and "luster"---the reflectivity and shine of the surface.  Fine pearls have no flaws or spots in the nacre and are even and smooth.  Other factors which affect value are the regularity of the shape, size,and color---white with "rose" tints are the most popular.

In fact, like diamonds and the "four Cs", pearls are graded by the "5 S's":  Shine, Surface, Shape, Shade, and Size.

• Shine: considered the "soul" of the pearl
• Surface: any blemishes or grain
• Shape: round, near round, drop, button, baroque, circle
• Shade: natural pearls are found in white, ivory, pink, peach, champagne, rose, lavender, silver, blue, yellow, gold, aubergine, green, grey, black
• Size: pearls are measured my millimeter, and range up to 22.8 mm

Baroque Pearls:   Any pearl that is not round
Blister Pearls:  Pearls that form on the inside of the shell
Mabe Pearls:  Cultured blistered pearl
Biwa Pearls:  Pearls formed in Biwa Lake, Japan. Irregular shaped.  Are formed when a square mother of pearl bead is inserted inside a freshwater clam.

Circle Pearl Strand, $2,000

Ringed or Circle Pearls:  As the pearl turns inside the mollusk as it is form, little rings form around the pearl. A pearl that has one or more parallel grooves etched around its circumference is called a 'circle' pearl. All shapes can be classified as circle pearls if these rings or grooves are present. Found often on Tahitian pearls.