Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Herkimer "Diamonds"

You know, it just seems like nowadays, with the internet and all, it's SO easy to find out about anything by simply googling it.  Doesn't everyone use google??

Herkimer in rock cavity
That's why I don't understand why people (sellers) try to get away with false claims about gemstones, or over-hyped manmade stones, like moissanite!  I've seen a lot about Herkimer Diamonds lately and it seems there are a lot of consumers who aren't informed... 

What is a Herkimer Diamond?
There are beautiful, naturally produced clear quartz crystals found in Herkimer County, NY that are referred to as "Herkimer Diamonds", hence the Herkimer part of the name.  They are about 500 million years old.  They're called "diamonds" because when they are found, they look like someone faceted them---but they are naturally clear and "faceted" with double termination points, and 18 total facets (six on each point, six around the center).  They do NOT "mimic diamonds in their sparkle and appearance" -- they are nothing like a real diamond, but they are exactly like a clear quart crystal because that is what they are.  They are ALWAYS double terminated quartz crystals with 18 facets.  Their overall shape looks like a "diamond" shape.  Quartz crystals are always hexagonal, but a Herkimer is double-terminated (on both ends) rather than on one end like other quartz.   This double termination is rare because Herkimers grow with little or no contact with the host rock--they form within cavities in the rock, specifically dolomite.  Quartz has a Mohs hardness rating of 7, and Herkimers that I personally had tested also have a Mohs of 7.  I've read online that Herkimers are "harder" than other quartz with a Mohs of 7.5, and perhaps that's true of some of the crystals, but it wasn't true with the verified Herkimers that I had tested (by the professionals at Rio Grande Jewelry).

Although Herkimer County, New York is the location for which these crystals are named, similar double terminated quartz crystals have been found elsewhere, including Arizona, Afghanistan, Norway, Ukraine and China. They have the same appearance but should not be called "Herkimers" when found elsewhere.  (I guess "China Diamond" doesn't quite have the same caché...)

People can go mining for these gems, which is a fun way to spend a day.  Herkimers were sought after by the Mohawk Indians and early settlers and became popular in jewelry around the mid-20th Century.

Are they brighter and clearer than other quartz crystals?  Are they special?
Herkimer Diamonds
Some Herkimers are incredibly clear (just like any quartz crystal).   The really do sparkle!  Many people believe that Herkimer "Diamonds" should rival genuine diamonds, because Herkimers are found already "faceted", whereas diamonds are found in the rough and need skilled cutters to bring out their beauty.   They are beautiful for sure, but are NOT more sparkling than any other type of clear quartz.

Herkimer Diamonds (which are actually Herkimer Quartz) have surged in popularity recently.  Lots of people like they idea of a natural gemstone that is easily mined (no "blood diamonds"!) right here in the U.S.

Afghan "Herkimers"
Unfortunately, with the popularity of this stone, come unscrupulous sellers  offer "Herkimer Diamonds" from Brazil, China, elsewhere in the world.  These are just clear quartz crystals that use the name "Herkimer" as a selling point.   I've seen a LOT of this online, which is very sad.  I guess these sellers figure something like, "Hey, it's the same stone, who cares?"  Worse, I've seen faceted clear quartz---faceted like a gemstone, in brilliant rounds, ovals, princess cuts or pears----sold as "Herkimer Diamonds"!  How ridiculous!! (see below)   The beauty of a Herkimer is its NATURAL shape! Any quartz that is clear and faceted is just that----faceted quartz! 


Someone is even fraudulently selling Herkimers online, describing them as follows:

   "Faceted Herkimer diamonds are conflict-free quartz crystals and possesses a remarkably similar composition to diamonds. Herkimer are known to activate the release of energy blockages, enhance intuition and dreams, and raise energy levels."

But a Herkimer is a clear QUARTZ crystal, a common mineral made of silicon dioxide.  A diamond is pure, crystalized carbon (the hardest mineral on earth).  Their composition is not similar at all.  They are certainly conflict-free, so at least they got that right.

Faceted Quartz, touted as "Herkimer Diamonds"
THE WORST:  online are sellers marketing machine-faceted clear quartz as "Herkimer diamonds".  Even entire websites and youtube videos are devoted to this.  Sellers online will set a faceted clear quartz into a ring setting, and then sell it as a "Herkimer Diamond" and charge a LOT.  This is yet another example of "creative marketing".   What sets a Herkimer apart from other quartz is the fact that it is FOUND "faceted" in its natural state.  The Herkimer quartz itself isn't different in composition than other quartz. 





Consumers really should take a few minutes online and do a little research before purchasing any "faceted broken Herkimer Diamonds" or Herkimers that originate from anywhere other than New York, if you have your heart set on buying a Herkimer.  Any faceted QUARTZ can be colorless and water clear and a beautiful substitute for a diamond!  Adding the Herkimer name to the stone doesn't make it better.  I'd be wary of any such "creative marketing".  Remember, what makes a Herkimer different from all the rest of the quartz is that it is NATURALLY "faceted" and sparkling---courtesy of Mother Nature.

Monday, June 10, 2013

Prasiolite: "Green Amethyst"?

Prasiolite:  "Green Amethyst"??
I often see "green amethyst" jewelry (and loose stones) for sale on etsy, and elsewhere on the internet.  It seems popular, and is a little pricey.  I've wondered about the name "green amethyst" though---I mean, do we call citrine "yellow amethyst"?  Or clear quartz, "clear amethyst"?   It seems sort of weird... so I did a little research.

Untreated Amethyst
Since amethyst is, by definition, the violet to purple shade of quartz, there is really no such thing as green amethyst!  Some gemstone varieties are simply defined by their distinctive color, such as emerald, or ruby, or ametrine.

Why do people sell, and buy, something called "green amethyst"? What is it? Where does it come from? Does it have anything to do with amethyst?

What people are selling and buying is actually something known by gemologists as prasiolite. The name comes from the Greek word for "leek-green." Prasiolite is a golden green quartz, somewhat similar in color to peridot, or lemon quartz!

Here's the most interesting thing:  there is no such thing as "natural" or "untreated" prasiolite!  Prasiolite (or green quartz) starts as amethyst, or pale yellow quartz, and is heated until the green color is achieved.  However, not all amethyst or yellow quartz can be heated to produce prasiolite. According to gemological sources, only quartz from the Montezuma deposit in Minas Gerais, Brazil can be heated to produce prasiolite. The quartz is heated to about 500 degrees centigrade to produce the light golden-green color.

Unfortunately, the color is not stable and is known to fade when exposed to strong sunlight!

Synthetic Green Quartz
Some of the "prasiolite" on the market is actually synthetic quartz or glass!  Whenever you see a deep minty green or blue-green stone that is called "green amethyst" it is NOT prasiolite at all!  These stones in the artificial greens are actually synthetics.

Are there any naturally-occurring green quartz stones?

Yes.  There are members of the chalcedony family that are natural, translucent green stones:  chrysoprase and aventurine.  Chrysoprase is a natural stone that varies in color from apple green to deep green.  Aventurine is a natural green stone with glittery mica inside!

So then why is Prasiolite sold as "Green Amethyst"?

Sadly, the answer is perhaps greed, or what I like to call, "creative marketing".    
Since amethyst is the most valuable gem in the quartz family, calling this green heated quartz "amethyst" is just an attempt to "elevate" prasiolite and charge a premium for the stone. I guess that, if it's genuine prasiolite, it began as amethyst and then is heated to achieve the green color, it's not a complete fabrication, but it is a stretch!

Sunday, June 9, 2013

Rubies! Did you know...??


I love rubies!  Well, who doesn't?  They're so beautiful and the distinctive pink-red color of the stone can be seen from far away, so ruby jewelry is always noticed!

Queen Elizabeth's Burmese Ruby Tiara
A ruby is a "red sapphire".  Sapphires come in every color of the rainbow, but when it's red it's called a ruby!

Rubies are almost always heat treated to enhance the color and vibrancy.  In the jewelry industry, heat treatment is assumed (unless otherwise specified).   The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) accepts this treatment, as it is permanent and will never degrade over time.  It's like a continuation of the natural heating of the stone!  A ruby is heated to improve its clarity and color. At temperatures above 1700 degrees Celsius, the "silk" (rutile needles in the stone) dissolves and improves the color and clarity of the stone.   Jewelers can determine if a ruby has been heat treated by the lack of "silk" in the stone.

And there are other treatments available:
  • Fracture filling (with glass!) to fill in cavities or fractures in the stone (see below);
  • Surface diffusion (applying a coating on the stone to enhance color);
  • Dying the stone
  • Oiling the stone
  • Waxing the stone
Dying, oiling and waxing are not permanent and may require future treatment!

Sellers of treated rubies (whether loose stones or set in jewelry)  should ALWAYS tell the consumer about the treatments/enhancements done to the ruby.  Hiding this information is dishonest, to say the least.

Untreated, natural rubies are VERY rare and very expensive---they can demand prices at over $20,000 a carat!  

Lead Glass Filling:

Glass Fracture-Filled Ruby - $36.72, 1.36 ct
Filling the fractures inside the ruby with lead glass (or a similar material) dramatically improves the transparency of the stone.  This is done in four steps:
  1. The rough stones are pre-polished;
  2. The rough is cleaned with hydrogen fluoride;  
  3. The first heating process during which no fillers are added. The heating process eradicates impurities inside the fractures.
  4. The second heating process in an electrical oven with different chemical additives, including lead glass powder.  The ruby is dipped into oils, then covered with powder, embedded on a tile and placed in the oven where it is heated at around 900 °C (1600 °F) for one hour in an oxidizing atmosphere. The orange colored powder transforms upon heating into a transparent to yellow-colored paste, which fills all fractures. After cooling the color of the paste is fully transparent and dramatically improves the overall transparancy of the ruby.  This process can be repeated three or four times using different additives.
If a color needs to be added, the glass powder can be "enhanced" with copper or other metal oxides as well as elements such as sodium, calcium, potassium etc.

The treatment can easily be determined using a 10x loupe to see bubbles either in the cavities or in the fractures that were filled with glass.

Heated Treated Ruby - 2.1 Carats, $2,588--gemselect.com

A reputable seller will ALWAYS tell a customer if the ruby has been heat treated, fracture-filled, or been given another treatment.




Friday, June 7, 2013

Ametrine...

Ametrine is a name that describes a stone that is both Amethyst and Citrine, or purple and yellow, in one stone.  Obviously, the "Ame" is from Amethyst, and the "trine" is from Citrine. It is a very clear, clean bi-colored quartz stone that occurs naturally---but rarely.  It is formed naturally when quartz (with high iron impuries) is partially exposed to heat while parts remain cool.  In other words, a quartz crystal that is exposed to two extreme temperatures at the same time results in Ametrine.  Currently it can be found in one mine in the world---the Anahi Mine in Bolivia.  Prior to the Anahi find, there was Ametrine found in the Rio Grande de Azul Mine in Brazil, but the Anahi Ametrine is a much higher quality gem.
Genuine 6-ct. Anahi Ametrine

Hydro Quartz (NOT genuine)
Ametrine will display both a beautiful golden yellow and rich purple hues, with both colors complimenting each other nicely.  There are many variations in shades, but Ametrine is always yellow and purple.  Genuine Ametrine would exhibit a "blend" of the color tones, and not a distinct "line" of color (see the picture right) or not in an "ombre" effect (see left).  It can be faceted and cut into many shapes, but a rectangular (like emerald cut or radiant) cut really shows off the stone the best.  A seven-carat stone is considered the ideal size to showcase the clarity and colors of the Ametrine the best---lower than five carats is not recommended.  It is a hard gemstone and works well in jewelry worn on a daily basis.

Hydro Quarts--NOT Ametrine
Lately online, including on etsy, I've seen a number of jewelry items that feature "ametrine" in strange colors, such as orange and blue, blue and green, yellow and green, yellow and clear....and even some very vivid  orange and purple stones.  These are NOT Ametrines!!  Some sellers say these stones are "natural" from "Bolivia".  Some say they have been "irradiated" or treated in some way.  It is possible that it's quartz that has been treated.  It's possible (more likely, probable) that it's created in a lab, or really possibly glass.  Recently I've seen a LOT of new CZ from China and Thailand online---they seem to be working on creating a lot of gemstone simulants in new colors, such as "mystic" CZ (which is being sold as topaz), morganite, aquamarine, tsavorite, even simulated (CZ) rubies that have visible "inclusions" introduced to the crystal growing process.  The result is a fairly convincing stone that unsuspecting buyers are purchasing.  So sad!  As an example, here--direct from Thailand--is a "7.3 carat aquamarine" for only $6.99!  (Hint: it's fake)
Aquamarine? 7.3 carats for $6.99? 


In researching online, I came across this very subject on a forum, which is very interesting to read (especially when the all-caps RANT starts a few posts down:

http://gemaddicts.com/forums/index.php?topic=1505.0

The answers provide a LOT of great information about gemstones and is very educational!  Special thanks to "Shandroid" who was the victim of the crazy ranter, after bravely confronting the fraudulent seller!

**EDIT to add:  I just discovered that Shandroid is an etsy seller, who has GORGEOUS jewelry (love the aquamarines!!) using only genuine gemstones, and here is a link to her store:

https://www.etsy.com/shop/ShantasticJewelry

It's nice to see such beautiful, natural gemstones that are hand-set by a fabulous artisan!  AND it's so nice to find a very trustworthy seller!

Sunday, June 2, 2013

Malachite - Real or Fake?

I love the color green, and Malachite is a mixture of deep, rich greens and bright, Springtime greens.  It's such a beautiful stone.  But what is it really?  Are there really fakes out there?  How can you tell?

Polished Slab of Malachite
I have a fabulous pendant that I'm thinking about putting in my shop.  It's from my Aunt, and actually there are two of these BIG artisan handcrafted pendants, one with Malachite and two colors of Mother of Pearl, and the second one has Malachite and a Biwa pearl, both with unique sterling settings.  I don't know which one I want to keep!  So I was trying to do some research on them, because they don't have any notes or tags with them about their origin, and I hoped I would see something similar.  (I did not!)

But I started reading about how a LOT of Malachite is fake!!  WHAT?  I didn't even know that.  I live in the desert southwest, and there are lots of Native American jewelry pieces with Malachite, so I see it often, but unlike turquoise (I know there are lots of fakes) it never occurred to me that there are fakes passed off as real.  And it's a little difficult to tell real from fake, but here is some info that might help.

First of all:  What is Malachite?

Malachite Stalagtite
Malachite is actually a mineral consisting of copper hydroxyl carbonate.  It forms near limestone, in stalagmites, in fractures, deep underground.  Individual crystals are rare but do occur.  Malachite results from the weathering of copper ores and is often found together with azurite, goethite, and calcite.  Malachite is similar to azurite except for color, and aggregates of the two minerals occur frequently. Malachite is typically associated with copper deposits around limestone, the source of the carbonate.

Large quantities of beautiful malachite have been mined in Russia, but it can be found worldwide in Africa, Morocco,New South Wales, France, and the Southwestern United States (Arizona and New Mexico).

 Are there Fakes?  How can you tell?

Like all popular stones, there are simulated Malachite pieces in the marketplace, especially over the internet.  Sometimes, a jewelry item will be described as "simulated" but sometimes that is in VERY small print, buried in a description somewhere.  Other words that may be used are "Faux", "Imitation", or "Man-Made". Sometimes sellers try to pass off the fakes as real.  And sometimes, a seller is misled or mistaken.  Here are some ways to tell if Malachite is real:
  •  It's cold to the touch.  
  •  It's heavy.
  •  It's hard.
      It is heavier than solid glass or plastic, and feels ‘dense’ and cold when held and touched.  The striped patterns, called "banding", is not uniform in its patterns and colors.   You’ll find circles and thin to thick parts in the patterns, and dark to mid-green hues.
  • Genuine Malachite is often hand-cut and hand-polished.  Beads aren't uniform in size and shape.  You can see the cutting and polishing marks on the Malachite sometimes.
  • Genuine malachite is not cheap!  If you see strands of malachite for a few dollars, it's not real. 
  • If you look closely at real Malachite, you may see tiny crystals visible in the stone.
  • Some genuine Malachite jewelry is treated with wax for higher durability, as it's a soft mineral.
Fake malachite comes in many forms:
Fake Malachite Beads
      There are fake Malachite "trade names" that are giveaways as phony.  These include blue malachite, emerald malachite, siliceous malachite and copper malachite.
      Plastic fake malachite is lightweight and warm to the touch.  It would melt if touched with a hot needle or you can smell the melting plastic.  Glass fake malachite tends is cold to the touch like genuine malachite, but because it’s glass it will warm up in your hand much quicker. Glass malachite is often made into beads. There are polymer clay fakes also, with how-to tutorials online---this really looks more blue and quite fake.  One time, for a guest bedroom, I even faux-painted a wooden desk (just the top) to look like malachite--it really did look like it!  Just with paint!!
Reconstituted Malachite


Re-processed or reconstituted malachite is made from crushed leftovers of the gemstone, mixed with dyes and resins, similar to reconstituted turquoise.  Reprocessed malachite can be identified by its exaggerated, often jagged banded patterns, uniform stripes and unrealistic green hues; it’s also usually feels lighter. Sometimes it's more of a blue-hue.





In what world is this Malachite??
UPDATE 7/15/13:  I just came across the WORST fake Malachite I could ever imagine (see picture)!!!  It's so terrible that it's funny and sad at the same time.  I mean, first of all, there is no such thing as "blue malachite".  And second, this looks like (badly) hand-painted river rocks or clay or something!  It's from China and you can see the listing HERE if you want (Aliexpress). In fact, I just looked at their other products and it's a MESS.  Lots of glass beads that they're calling such things as "Kunzite" (purple and green glass!), "watermelon tourmaline" which is the glass that others call "cherry quartz", cobalt glass that they call "sapphire", etc. etc.  YIKES.




How to take care of your Malachite jewelry:
  • Do not use a steam or ultrasonic cleaner
  • Because Malachite is very soft and easily scratched, I would advise against wearing a malachite ring but instead opt for a pendant or earring, they are less likely to come in contact with hard objects or a heat source.
  • Store it separately from other gemstones. Most likely every other gemstone you own, especially faceted gemstones, are able to scratch your malachite jewelry.
  • Clean it with lukewarm water, a mild soap and, only when needed, a soft brush. Use a soft cloth to dry.
I do have two genuine malachite items in my etsy shop that are GORGEOUS:  a beautiful Etruscan style gold vermeil bangle bracelet, and a fabulous (I mean FABULOUS!) Etruscan style ring with enamel in gold vermeil.  Genuine malachite, guaranteed:


Ring is HERE.



Bracelet is HERE.



UPDATE: I'm sorry but both of those malachite pieces are sold. But I do have some genuine malachite necklaces, so please check my Etsy or Amazon store. Thanks!
 

Saturday, June 1, 2013

What are "Mystic" Gemstones and How Are They Made?

Gemstones are beautiful as they are---mined from the earth or made in a lab.  Many, many "natural" gemstones are enhanced by various methods, including heat treatments which makes varieties of Quartz including Amethyst turn to Citrine and Ametrine for example, or which makes all Blue Topaz (from naturally occuring clear white topaz).  Rubies, Sapphires, and Tanzanites are also routinely heat treated to enhance their colors.  This is acceptable in the marketplace and these stones are still considered "natural gemstones" despite being treated.

Lately, a new technology involving coating gemstones such as Topaz and Quartz results in beautiful "Mystic" stones, creating a new "designer" type of gemstone.  There are many color varieties of this "mystic" treatment, including ecstasy topaz, mercury mist topaz, Neptune garden topaz and twilight fire topaz---each with a different type of coloration.  There are also gold or other metallic films, oranges, pinks, opal
...endless choices with new "mystic" treatments coming out all the time.

How is it made?  A thin metallic film (titanium) is applied to the pavillion (the lower portion of the faceted gem) on clear quartz or topaz, so that the ever-changing colors are reflected through the crown (the top) of the gem.  This means that the coating will be basically protected from scratching at the top, which gets the most wear and tear.  Plus, this film is molecularly bonded, making it a part of the stone.

The coated stones are durable and beautiful, displaying a wide array of rainbow colors.  So this method enhances the Quartz or Topaz with a film, rather than heat treatment.

Swarovski's Aurora Borealis Crystals
I've recently seen a lot of CZ (cubic zirconia) which has been treated with the "Mystic" film, which results in gorgeous colors.  This would make a beautiful and very affordable piece of jewelry, and probably with even more fire and brilliance than Mystic Topaz.  Of course, the Aurora Borealis coating on crystals and CZ have been around for some time, and they're really beautiful.  It appears that the Aurora Borealis coating is on the top (crown) of the stones rather than the  pavillion, so they need to be treated more carefully.  It's very interesting to note that the Aurora Borealis coating was created in 1956 when Christian Dior partnered with Swarovski to create the shimmering finish to enhance cut crystal! 

Thursday, May 30, 2013

What is Marcasite?

Iridescent Cluster of Marcasite Crystals
A lot of vintage jewelry, and vintage-looking jewelry, has marcasite in it.  Marcasite is really pretty, sort of a dark gunmetal to gold color, and is faceted and sparkly.  It has been used in jewelry since the time of the Ancient Greeks, and was very popular in the Victorian era, and in Art Nouveau jewelry.  In the early 20th Century, it was referred to as "black diamonds".   But what is marcasite?

Marcasite Sterling Band Ring in my Etsy Shop
Marcasite is actually "Fool's Gold" or Iron Pyrite!  Pyrite is more stable and less brittle than actual Marcasite, so it's used in jewelry. Actual "marcasite" is very similar to Fool's Gold, in that it is White Iron Pyrite---very similar but with a more fragile crystal structure. 

I didn't realize that Marcasite was actually Fool's Gold until today!