Thursday, March 31, 2016

Nickel in Surgical Stainless Steel, and What is "Hypoallergenic" Anyway?

Last month, someone sent me an email and said, "Do you have surgical steel clasps for the cord necklaces? I have a nickel allergy..."

I already know that "surgical steel" and other kinds of stainless steel for jewelry contains quite a bit of nickel (up to 12% nickel) .  So I explained that, but offered to get her a surgical steel clasp anyway, plus I gave her a lot of good information about other metals that might be a better option.  But I never heard back.

I think this is another case of, what I call the "Asimov Question":  do they want the answer that is true, or the answer that satisfies?  Most people want the one that satisfies.  I prefer the truth!

WHAT IS "HYPOALLERGENIC"?

This is a "creative marketing" term that originated in the 1950s within the cosmetics industry, and was soon adopted by the jewelry industry.  "Hypo-" means "below normal" (such as hypoglycemia, or low blood glucose) so it roughly means "below normal substance that can cause an allergy".   This term really has only a vague meaning and isn't a specific medical term.  People can have allergic reactions to almost anything, so there is no "one term fits all".   Since many people have allergic reactions to nickel, people seem to think that this term means that it contains no nickel.  This is NOT true.

WHAT IS STAINLESS STEEL?

Stainless Steel is often described as "hypoallergenic".  Many people believe that stainless steel is nickel free, but most stainless steel alloys (even surgical stainless steel) contain 8-12% nickel. Although it’s legally acceptable to put a “hypoallergenic” label on all stainless steel, it's misleading and confusing.

There are over 100 alloys of stainless steel, and each is denoted by a unique SAE steel grade number.  Stainless steel alloys include steel (Iron with carbon), chromium for scratch resistance and corrosion resistance, nickel to improve strength, and other trace elements.

304 Stainless Steel* is the most popular alloy, found in a lot of jewelry.  It contains about 10.5% nickel plus carbon and other alloys.  It is highly corrosion resistant and is used in the food industry as well as jewelry---clasps, wires, findings, etc.

304L Stainless Steel has a lower carbon content, but contains more nickel (up to 12%).  It is known for its durability.

430 Stainless Steel contains less than 0.75% nickel and if it contains less than 0.5% nickel, it meets the EU compliance regulation.  Rio Grande Jewelry has Stainless Steel clasps that meet the EU regulation, but they state that they DO contain some nickel. 

Surgical Stainless Steel is a general term that just means the stainless steel has properties that make it suitable for making surgical instruments, or temporary surgical implants.  It does not indicate that it's a "better" grade of stainless steel.  The SAE grade number (316, 316L, 430, etc.) defines the alloy and properties.

316 and 316L Surgical Stainless Steel contain 2-3% molybdenum for greater resistance to harsh corrosives. 316L is a low carbon version of 316, and is frequently used for stainless steel watches and marine applications. BUT, just like most other stainless steel, it contains 8-10.5% nickel, making it unsuitable for people with nickel allergies.

JEWELRY THAT CONTAINS NICKEL v. NICKEL RELEASE 

There is a difference between something that is made with nickel, such as stainless steel, and something that allows that nickel to be 'released' or absorbed by the wearer.  The Euopean Union has very strict guidelines and testing for nickel release (see below).
Jewelers and jewelry makers buy their supplies from wholesale manufacturers.  Reputable wholesalers will provide information regarding the nickel content of their items and hopefully jewelers and jewelry makers will include this information in their jewelry.  One well-known and respected wholesaler is Rio Grande Jewelry.  If you click on that link, it will take you to their listings (over 400 items) of stainless steel ear wires, cuffs, clasps, etc.  Each individual item has information regarding the EU's regulations regarding nickel release.  For most of their surgical stainless steel, such as earwires, it says this:
please note: • Customers within the European Union: Please be aware that this item contains nickel and may not be in compliance with EU regulation EN1811:2011.
For some items, such as a stainless cuff, it says this:
please note: • Customers within the European Union: Please be aware that, though it contains nickel, this item is in compliance with EU regulation EN1811:2011.

More information about EU regulation EN1811:2011 can be found HERE.  A broader overview regarding this regulation can be found on Wiki HERE.


=========================
* UPDATE:   I received some information from a jeweler in the UK regarding the difference between nickel content and nickel release.  It's an interesting read and compelling argument for the wearability of stainless steel:  

http://www.worldstainless.org/Files/issf/non-image-files/PDF/Euro_Inox/TheSafeChoice_EN.pdf

Thank you to J. Arthur Loose!  Much appreciated!
=======================================

 WHAT ABOUT STERLING AND FINE SILVER?

Sterling Silver is an alloy of pure silver (92.5%) plus 7.5% copper.  Most people can wear Sterling Silver without any problems, but some people can be sensitive to either metal.  Copper is reactive and causes tarnish, and can even cause skin to turn green.   Fine silver, 99.9% pure silver, contains no alloys and although it's slightly softer (more easily scratched) than Sterling, it will not tarnish as quickly or as much, if at all.

Argentium Sterling Silver is a fairly new alloy, which uses Germanium in place of most of the copper.  This results in a beautiful, bright and harder Sterling Silver, and is more resistant to tarnish.  I use Argentium Sterling whenever possible---it's so much better than "regular" sterling.

WHAT ABOUT 10K, 14K, OR 18K GOLD?

Pure gold is 24k (karat), or 24 out of 24 parts pure gold.
14k gold is 14 out of 24 parts pure gold---which means 10 parts are other metals.  These metals can be copper, silver, zinc, or nickel (used to make white gold).  Palladium is often used to replace nickel in white gold nowadays.

WHAT'S A GREAT ALTERNATIVE METAL?

There are a couple of good choices if you have a lot of allergies to metals:

Nobium - this is used in medical implants.  It is highly resistant to corrosion.  It's not plated or painted, but is anodized which is an electrochemical permanent colorizing process.  It can be found in lots of bright colors and can be safely worn in piercings for most people.

Titanium - a very strong metal used often in medical implants. 

ARE THERE OTHER METALS THAT CONTAIN NO NICKEL?

Copper - but is highly reactive and turns colors in the air ("verdigris") and on the skin.
Brass contains copper and zinc.
Bronze contains copper and tin.


CONCLUSION:  Any form of Stainless Steel contains nickel, and most do not comply with the Euopean Union's standards and should be avoided by anyone with a nickel sensitivity.  Some forms of stainless do comply, and therefore the nickel content does not migrate enough to cause wearer problems.   Exposure to nickel over time will increase sensitivity, so it's wise to avoid anything with nickel.  So "surgical stainless steel" is NOT necessarily the best option. 

Good quality Sterling Silver or Fine Silver are great options for anyone with nickel allergies.  So are the various karats of yellow gold. Sterling and karat gold contain copper, and these metals will tarnish or oxidize (or "tone") over time.  Sometimes they can react with skin and leave dark marks, which are easily removable but weird looking.

Argentium Sterling Silver is a great option for anyone with nickel sensitivities, and is highly tarnish-resistant.



Friday, January 15, 2016

Synthetic Opals v. Opal Simulants Shaped Like Hamsa Hands, Dolphins, Etc.

I get all sorts of  "suggestions" from Etsy, and some are great and some aren't so great.  Earlier this week, one suggestion was a Hamsa hand necklace that was described as a "synthetic opal".  I clicked on it because I surely have never seen any opal that was purple with all sorts of evenly disbursed speckles (like the one on the left above).  It was obviously not an opal.  The seller went into great detail about how this was an "actual opal" that was lab-created.  So I did some research (online and in person with a gemologist)  and.... sorry--buyer beware, because that's not what this is.

What Does "Synthetic" Mean? 
For most people, and for most things, the word 'synethtic' means basically "fake"or made with chemicals.  I think of things like synthetic grass, synthetic hair, synthetic fabrics.  It means that it's not natural, but is made to look like something else.  Synthetic hair looks a lot like real hair, for example, but it's not made out of hair--probably nylon fibers or something.  Same with synthetic grass, like Astroturf.  It LOOKS like grass, but it is made out of some sort of plastic.  So for most things, synthetic means "imitation".

What Does "Synthetic" Mean in Jewelry?
So this is confusing, because in the jewelry industry, "synthetic" doesn't mean the same thing as everywhere else.  Synthetic gemstones are man-made, in a laboratory, but they have the same EXACT chemical make-up as its natural counterpart.  For example, a synthetic ruby is absolutely a genuine ruby (corundum) with the same chemical, as well as physical and optical properties, as a natural ruby---except it's grown in a lab.   Even diamonds are lab-grown.  These are synthetic, ACTUAL diamonds, made of carbon, but are not natural--yet they are in fact diamonds, only lab created. 

I like to compare synthetic gemstones to ice:  you can make ice in your freezer with water, or you can find natural ice in a glacier.  They're both ice (frozen water, H2O), only one is man-made and the other develops naturally.

What Does "Simulated" Mean in Jewelry?
Simulated jewelry means just what you think---that something is an imitation of something else. There are lots of simulated gemstones.  For example, Cubic Zirconia (CZ), Swarovski crystals,  Moissanite, and even glass are all diamond simulants.  These are stones that are faceted and LOOK like a diamond, but when examined, do not have the same chemical properties as a genuine diamond.  Glass can be colored, as can CZs, to look like rubies or emeralds or other precious or semi-precious gemstones.  Even other gems can be used as a simulant---for example white topaz looks like a diamond.

So, a simulated gemstone is an imitation.  A synthetic gemstone is a man-made actual gemstone.

What is a Synthetic Opal v. Simulated Opal?
While there are some synthetic opals available (which are lab-created opals, with the identical chemical as well as physical and optical properties of natural opal), the vast number of so-called synthetics are actually just simulated or imitation opals.  They look like an opal, but they do not have any water in them, and in fact are often mostly resin (plastic).

What about the Japanese "Kyocera" Synthetic Opals?
These were tested by the GIA and were found to contain resin and no water.  Therefore, these are simulated (imitation) opals, NOT true synthetic opals.

What is "Opal Block" or "Block Opal"?
This is a slab of man-made opal-like material, mostly resin, which can be carved into many different shapes. This is like "block turquoise" which is mostly (or all) plastic.  This block opal comes in a wide range of colors.  At RioGrande.com you can see many colors of block opal, and it is clearly described as "imitation" opal.  This is the same material that is used to make these so-called "synthetic" opal charms and beads. It is made in China, and runs about $3.50 to $4.80 a gram (like about 3/4"):

From RioGrande.com - Imitation Opal made in China
I looked at the imitation opal blocks in various colors at Rio Grande, and it's amazing how beautiful and "real" this material looks!  Especially the "fire and ice" (like white opal).  The colors really flash and glow in the light and is pretty convincing!

What About All Those "Synthetic Opal" Hamsa Charms and Round Beads?

Some wild colors here
They are obviously NOT true synthetic opals, but are simulated opals.  These can be purchased wholesale from alibaba and Ebay and Etsy and are generally misrepresented as synthetic opal.  They seem to cost about $2-$5 each for a Hamsa, and about 20 cents for a round bead, and much less depending on volume ordered.  If you look at some of the wholesalers from China, even though they are calling this "Synthetic" opal, as you scroll down the page, they explain that it is resin-filled or "stabilized".  That is all you need to know that this is NOT an opal, but is an imitation opal.



Here is a color chart of all the stabilized simulated (not synthetic) opals available:





An opal cannot be both "synthetic" and stabilized!   If it's stabilized (or plastic-filled), it's not an a actual opal.


One wholesale company in China (confusingly! and erroneously!) describes their Hamsa charms like this:
What is Synthetic Opal?
Synthetic opal (GIA: Polymer Impregnated synthetic opal) is impregnated in laboratory in around a year and has similar properties as that of natural opal. Our synthetic opal is a beautiful opal with perfect color dynamicity - revealed the beauty of Precious Opal.
So although this particular wholesaler is describing this product as polymer filled with "similar properties as that of natural opal", they are still very misleading by calling it "synthetic opal".  Plus there is no such thing as a "polymer impregnated synthetic" anything!  The GIA never stated that! You can see their site HERE.

Another wholesale company in China is selling these SAME Hamsa charms, only describing them as "Ethiopian Opal" Hamsa Hands!!  That is very bad.


 CONCLUSION:

These simulated or imitation opal beads and charms, in all their colors and shapes, are very pretty.  They are also very inexpensive.  They are fun to wear and would make lovely gifts.  Just know that these are NOT genuine opals, whether lab-grown or natural, but are mostly plastic or resin imitation opals (lookalikes) that are molded or carved into shapes.   These are pretty, but at a wholesale cost of under $2 to $5 (including a chain!), are not genuine precious opals or fine jewelry by any means.

That said, I think these are extremely pretty (some colors more than others), and I'm considering buying one in the white "fire and ice opal" look to wear myself!  Just know that it isn't really a gem Opal, and that it's a simulated opal.  As long as you know what you're buying, enjoy your jewelry!!  It's pretty and FUN and that's what jewelry is all about.





Tuesday, November 3, 2015

Questions? General Comments?

Sometimes, people have questions or general comments and leave comments somewhere in my blog.  NOW, I have added a "Contact Me" widget (on the right sidebar) so I can directly answer any general or specific questions you might have.  Your email address is required, but is kept private, so I can send you a response.

So please, ask away!!  I'll get back to you pretty quickly.

Thank you!

Monday, September 14, 2015

FYI: Some "Gemstones" That Aren't Really Gems At All!


It seems like every week, a "new" gemstone is found online, with little or no information at all about it.  And jewelry designers will use these stones and pass along the information they are given by the wholesaler, and pretty soon, the misinformation seemingly becomes accepted as fact.

Yet, with just a little effort, anyone can find out about these stones.  But it doesn't seem like consumers or even jewelry designers bother to spend a few minutes researching these stones.

There are SO many fakes and frauds, or what I like to call "creative marketing" of gemstones,  that I could write many blog entries....and I have!!  But I thought it would be easier to just start a quick list of "gemstones" that aren't really gems at all.  I hope this is informative, or at least gets people to do their own research on gemstones before buying!

This list is a work in progress and I'll update it as I get more info.

ARGENON STONE, ARGENON FLUORITE 
There are a lot of body jewelry shops selling Opalite, which is GLASS, as a something called "argenon", "argenon stone", "argenon fluorite", "argenon opalite", "argenon moonstone" and so forth (basically anything using "argenon"!) claiming it's a semi-precious gem or a natural gemstone.  NO, this is simply renaming Opalite glass.  This is a man-made glass and is NOT A GEMSTONE.

"SILVERITE"

July 1, 2016 - I had 3 samples of "silverite" examined by a certified gemologist.  If you read my blog or even shop on Etsy, you will see "Silverite" jewelry for sale---yet each seller seems to have their own description of what it is; i.e., "white sapphire", "pearlized Corundum", "Diamond Coated Quartz" etc.  (Read HERE.)   This gemologist examined the 3 separate pieces of this "Silverite" using various tests, including microscopic examination and other tests. She found no indication that any of these were minerals, but were all GLASS with a coating, some sort of pearlescent paint or coating.  She is a professional jeweler, a certified gemologist with one of the world's largest and most well-known and well-respected gemstone suppliers----and she never even heard of "silverite" and consulted with others in her field--and they never heard of "silverite" either.  (I showed her listings on Etsy and she was shocked.) She examined three separate pieces from 3 different sellers, and determined that ALL WERE COATED GLASS.  These are NOT "corundum" or "sapphire" or "quartz" or any sort of gemstone or mineral AT ALL.  PERIOD.  Silverite is a FRAUD. Beware.

FAKE QUARTZ 


  • Cherry Quartz 
  • Blueberry Quartz
  • Pineapple Quartz
  • Strawberry Quartz 
 These "fruit" quartz stones are actually GLASS with swirling colors inside the glass.  Please note that fruity "Lemon Quartz" is an actual gemstone.  Sometimes, genuine quartz with encapsulated red Hematite needles (often referred to as "Lepidocrocite" which is also false) is sold as Strawberry Quartz. 
  • Opalite, Opal Quartz, Sea Opal, Opal Moonstone, or sometimes just Moonstone

    Opalite GLASS
Just because the word "Opal" is in the name Opalite doesn't mean it's any form of Opal!  This is simply GLASS, and can be found at such places as Michael's craft store where it is sold as "Opalite Glass" -- at least they're honest!  There are a LOT of sellers hawking opalite on Ebay and Etsy under the guise of "Moonstone" and other misleading names.  Opalite is not a form of quartz, it's not an opal or a moonstone or any type of gemstone----it's just glass.  I've written about this a LOT on my blog.
  • Tangerine Quartz

    Tangerine Quartz: Mystic coated?
I haven't been able to determine if this is a real quartz, perhaps treated, a more "orange" color of citrine, or if it's just a coated quartz ("sunset" or "Tangerine Aura") or if it's glass.  I haven't found any tests that were run on this yet, so I can't say for sure.  There is a lot of misinformation about this, some obviously coated crystals, but some crystals clusters that appear to have an orange color within the stone. 
  • Mystic Aura Coated Quartz Crystals

    Mystic Quartz? Looks like Glass to me!!
Many of these quartz crystals are actual quartz crystals that are coated in various metals like titanium and gold to produce beautiful rainbow-like effects.  However, there are LOTS of these mystic aura crystals that are nothing more than coated GLASS, mostly coming from China.  Not all of these crystals from China are glass, and it's very hard to tell (especially online), but if the prices are very low (like on Alibaba) then they most probably are coated glass.  Ebay has a large number of sellers from outside the USA who are selling these pastel-colored coated crystals in colors like lavender and peach and seafoam and turquoise-blue, very pretty---but not necessarily genuine Quartz crystals.  I bought a few strands of these pastel crystals, had them examined by a gemologist, and they were ALL glass.   I bought some titanium coated crystals and they were quartz.   So it's hit or miss.  Be careful when buying these!
  • Fake Rutilated Quartz and Fake Tourmalinated Quartz

    Phony Glass "Rotayti" - In Black and Green!
Found all over the internet, lots of this obvious glass material with "confetti" or scratches and bubbles inside, on Ebay and on Etsy.  One big giveaway is that it is sold as "Rotayti" which is a name that doesn't even exist.  It's obviously a mangled version of the word Rutile or Rutilated, and Etsy sellers (who don't even make the jewelry but buy it from China or India, sadly) just pass along this "Rotayti" as though it's some gemstone!  Wow!  These are terrible looking fakes.  Nothing is found in nature that looks like that!!  Here are the real quartz gems:


Rutilated Quartz is a natural gem---clear quartz with encapsulated "needles" of Rutile (Titanium Dioxide), in golds, browns, or reddish colors.  Often looks like strands of golden hair.



Tourmalinated Quartz is a natural gem---clear quartz with encapsulated "needles" of Tourmaline, usually black but sometimes green.





  • Hydro Quartz

    "Paraiba" HydroQuartz?
Yes, there are actual man-made "hydroquartz" stones that have the same physical, chemical and optical properties as natural quartz---in other words, they are synthetic quartz stones.  However, a HUGE number of these so-called "hydroquartz" stones being sold today are nothing more than GLASS.   I have only seen these "hydroquartz" stones, fashioned into briolettes and pears and cushion cut stones and many other shapes, sold on strands or in pairs, online, or sometimes at gem shows.    I have personally purchased hydroquartz stones from various sellers online  and have had them examined and tested by a gemologist, and sad to say---all were glass, NONE were quartz.  Personal communications with the GIA have also confirmed that only testing will reveal if these are glass, or quartz.  I hate seeing these stones sold with HIGHLY misleading names, such as "London Blue quartz" or "Tanzanite quartz" or "Paraiba Quartz" which are the names of actual gemstones.  To me, this is beyond "creative marketing" and is designed to fool buyers into thinking they're getting London Blue Topaz or Paraiba Tourmaline.  So be careful when buying this "hydro quartz". 

 GOLDSTONE, BLUE GOLDSTONE, MIDNIGHT GOLDSTONE, SUN SITARA,  STELLARIA, GALAXY STONE, BLUE SANDSTONE


These are spectacularly beautiful GLASS stones, in deep blue or coppery gold, and sometimes green and purple.  They are absolutely man-made, not gemstones, and are made in a controlled environment with copper and cobalt oxides, and form beautiful and sparkling crystals which are captured within this very hard glass.  This glass can be faceted and carved into various shapes.  Gorgeous stones, but beware of any seller who claims this is a gemstone!  It is only a type of Venetian glass.  I've written a lot about this in my blog.

I just saw someone selling this as "Blue Sandstone", saying it's a natural gemstone with all sorts of metaphysical properties, "composed of quartz or feldspar because these are the most common minerals in the Earth's crust. The sand inside creates the blue color. For this reason, this substance is named "Blue sandstone."  WHAT?  That's just completely random nonsense, like words just strung together!  (Blue sand??)  This person obviously copied/pasted Wikipedia's description of the real sandstone...except for the blue part, which they made up.  There is NO sand inside this stone, it's not made of quartz or feldspar (??), and it's just simply the man-made Venetian glass called Blue Goldstone.  WOW.

SANDSTONE, BLUE SANDSTONE, SANDSTONE QUARTZ


So-called "Sandstone" which is actually glass Goldstone
I've so astonished at how MUCH of this is being sold now that I wanted to give this "sandstone" it's own section here.  There are pages and pages of this being sold on Etsy as a "gemstone" called "Sandstone" or  "Blue Sandstone" and it's even listed as a form of Quartz!  On Etsy, if you search for "sandstone", there are over 2,100 listings for jewelry and over 950 listings for supplies, with featured listings of this NON-sandstone material.
Real Sandstone--No Glass or Sparkles

This is still just a glass called Goldstone or Blue Goldstone (see the post above).  Of course there is a stone called "sandstone" but that's NOTHING like this Venetian glass that's filled with sparkles.  Every seller from China or India as well as in the US seems to have a new "creative" name for this material.  One year it's "Galaxy Stone", the next it's "Sun Sitara", and now it seems to be Sandstone. Whatever you call it, or claim it to be, it's still NOT quartz or any type of "sandstone" or any sort of stone or mineral at all.  EVER.  There is no "sand" inside it.   It's man-made Italian glass.

There is a seller from India who, although describing this as "Lab Sandstone" (which is only half-right---it is made in a lab!), goes on to describe it like this: "Sandstone has a beautiful glittering sunlight effect as a result of its tiny metallic inclusions (millions of particles playfully interact with light). This feature is known as "Schiller" or "Aventurescence"."  Again, they're half-right!  It is beautiful and glittering with tiny metallic particles, but it is NOT Schiller or Aventurescence.  Those are terms used to describe shimmering or glittering effects in GEMS--not man-made glass.

"MAGNETIC HEMATITE" OR HEMALYKE

This is an artificial magnetic material called hematine, not a gemstone, and is commonly seen in jewelry.  It's referred to as "Hemalyke" or "Hemalike" as well as "Magnetic Hematite".
Carved Victorian Hematite Brooch

There is a genuine mineral called Hematite that ranges in color from red to brown ("bloodstone"), and metallic dark grey, steel grey,  and black.






Lepidocrocite

Hematite in quartz---NOT Lepidocrocite
The red formations you see inside so-called "Lepidocrocite" are actually hematite crystals within quartz.  (Lepidocrocite is an actual mineral, but is not the commonly-seen stone as pictured.) Although quartz with hematite crystals is an actual gemstone, it is not "lepidocrocite" which is a very common misnomer.  There are no known quartz stones with lepidocrocite inside--it's always hematite.

Here is a picture of genuine lepidocrocite:

Actual Lepidocrocite crystals













RAINBOW CALSILICA


This colorful, banded stone was marketed a few years back as a "mined gemstone" found in Mexico.  Still today, some people are claiming it's mined, or it's "a mystery--is it real or not?" which is a way to generate interest in this colorful stone.  But testing has conclusively revealed that this is just an assembled manmade stone that is basically layers of pigments, resin, clay, polymers, etc. that is assembled into pressed slabs and then polished and marketed as Rainbow Calsilica.  There is NO QUESTION---two world-renowned labs have tested this, and it is absolutely not mined, not found in nature.  You can read one of the reports yourself:  http://www.ssef.ch/uploads/media/2003_Kiefert_Rainbow_Calsilica.pdf

CREATED DIAMONDS 

Apollo Cultured Created Diamonds

Although there are a few facilities around the world that actually create diamonds in a lab (synthetic diamonds, or "cultured diamonds"), these diamonds are pretty expensive (almost the cost of a natural diamond) and must have a laser engraving in the stone's girdle to indicate that it is, in fact, a created man-made diamond.  These are beautiful and flawless, and definitely NOT blood diamonds, but they are pricey.

  • NOTE:  A lot of people don't understand the difference between "synthetic" and "simulated" gemstones, and think they're the same thing.  No!  In the jewelry world, "synthetic" means man-made, or grown in a lab, but it has the same chemical, physical and optical properties as its natural counterpart.  So a "synthetic" ruby is a ruby, only lab-created.  A "simulated" stone means that only looks like another stone.  It doesn't have any of the physical or chemical properties.  A crystal is a diamond simulant--it only looks like a diamond.  So is a Cubic Zirconia (CZ).  A red CZ can be a ruby simulant.  So a synthetic gem and a simulated gem are two very different things!

Some sellers are offering CZ (Cubic Zirconia) jewelry, and are calling these "created diamonds".  This is fraudulent and against the FTC rules.  A CZ is actually a simulated diamond, NOT a created diamond.  CZs are lab-created stones, that are the best diamond simulants---they look nearly identical to a flawless, colorless diamond.  But they are NOT created diamonds.  That term is only to be used on lab-grown diamonds---that possess the same chemical (Carbon) and physical properties of a natural diamond, as well as optical properties.

I'm not sure if sellers who try to sell CZs as "created diamonds" are just misinformed (trying to give the benefit of a doubt!), or are trying to deceive the public into thinking their "created diamond ring" is somehow better and more valuable than a high-quality CZ.  (There are different grades of CZs.)
Moissanite on Left, Cultured Diamond on Right

By the way, like the inexpensive CZ, Moissanite is also a diamond simulant.  It is ALWAYS lab-created.  These stones are marketed as that they are "found in meteorites" but that's misleading.  If you gathered ALL of the actual moissanite ever found on Earth, you wouldn't have enough to make a tiny pair of earrings.  So Moissanite is grown in a lab, making this a synthetic stone.  It is double-refractive and often has a more "green" shift than diamonds.  Because of a great marketing effort, prices for this man-made stone are kept high.

FAKE EMERALDS, SAPPHIRES, RUBIES


There has been a FLOOD of phony precious gemstones from India, in particular.  You can find these all over Ebay (and Etsy).  These are large stones set in jewelry, such as necklaces, supposedly in Sterling Silver (but often it's just silver plated mystery metals), and can be found for unbelievably cheap prices.  For example, here is an "emerald" necklace on ebay right now, for $6.66:
Dyed Sillimanite - not Emerald


These types of stones have been tested and it is revealed that it is actually dyed sillimanite.   Sillimanite is a mineral, fibrous, that "takes" color easily.  It is a member of the same family as Kyanite.

I've written about this in my blog HERE. 




*************
Gemstones have been coveted throughout history, and there have been gem fakes and frauds for thousands of years.  Sometimes one gem was mistaken for another (such as the huge "Ruby" in the Crown Jewels of England, which turned out to be a huge Red Spinel gem).

But with today's technology, there are more and more fakes flooding the marketplace, and these fakes are getting harder and harder to discern.  Not too long ago, major jewelry companies and department stores were facing fraud lawsuits regarding rubies that were more leaded glass than gem!  And gemstones are treated with various methods, such as heat, irradiation, oiling, fissure filling, and other methods to enhance or even change the colors of the gemstones, or make them appear clearer with fewer flaws.  A lot of these enhancements are accepted as "normal" within the jewelry industry.  But it's important for jewelers to disclose any enhancements to the buyer.

FYI: Some "Gemstones" That Aren't Really Gems At All!

To help identify genuine minerals and gemstones, here is a great website that shows pictures of gems alphabetically:  http://www.minerals.net/GemstoneImageGallery.aspx
When you click on "Gemstones" at the top of the page, you can search by color as well.  
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It seems like every week, a "new" gemstone is found online, with little or no information at all about it.  And jewelry designers will use these stones and pass along the information they are given by the wholesaler, and pretty soon, the misinformation seemingly becomes accepted as fact.

Yet, with just a little effort, anyone can find out about these stones.  But it doesn't seem like consumers or even jewelry designers bother to spend a few minutes researching these stones.

There are SO many fakes and frauds, or what I like to call "creative marketing" of gemstones,  that I could write many blog entries....and I have!!  But I thought it would be easier to just start a quick list of "gemstones" that aren't really gems at all.  I hope this is informative, or at least gets people to do their own research on gemstones before buying!

This list is a work in progress and I'll update it as I get more info.

HERKIMER "DIAMONDS"
UPDATED: 2.23.19 - Although Herkimers are natural gemstones, I'm including these here because they're sold as "Herkimer Diamonds" and they're not diamonds!  They are quartz.  These are naturally-occurring quartz gems that grow as double-terminated (points on both ends) crystals with 8 sides that look like they've been faceted by hand.  They're just regular clear Quartz crystals that are found in Herkimer, NY.  There are many other places in the world where double-terminated quartz crystals are found (such as China) and are sold as "Herkimer Diamonds", but only the quartz crystals found in Herkimer, NY should be labeled "Herkimer Quartz".  
They're genuine QUARTZ, but not diamonds! 

"GREEN STRAWBERRY QUARTZ"
November 27, 2018 - There is a genuine gem called "strawberry quartz" (as well as glass beads sold as this gemstone) and it's called that because there are reddish inclusions of Lepidocrocite inside the clear quartz which gives it a strawberry color.  This is iron oxide, which is red to reddish brown like rust.  So because of the Lepidocrocite inside clear quartz, it's called Strawberry Quartz.
So how can there be "green" strawberry quartz?  Answer: there isn't.  There are quartz gems with mossy green minerals inside (several different minerals) and are called things like "moss agate" or "phantom quartz" etc.  The green minerals are a darker forest or grass green color, not kelly green as seen on ebay. Most of the so-called "green srawberry quartz" are either man-made glass, or are dyed quartz, or Aventurine. 

"GLEAMY MOONSTONE"
October 5, 2018 - This glass bead is being sold on ebay (from China) as a "natural moonstone" gem.  It is a manmade glass, and comes in a frosted (matte) glass, a smooth shiny glass, in a darker grey and a very light white.  It's just glass.  Alibaba is selling it as glass.

"MONALISA STONE"
 April 18, 2018 -  This stone is being sold as a gemstone, particularly on Etsy, and it's a glass "cat's eye" stone.  This is manufactured and sold by Indiamart.com - where it's clearly offered as a glass stone for costume jewelry...yet sellers are claiming it's a gem.  It's NOT!  I wrote about this HERE.

"SILICATITE"
June 4, 2018:  This stone is being sold, again almost exclusively on Etsy.  I have found absolutely no information anywhere about this stone, which is being sold as "coated silicatite" with no further description.  There is something online called silicalite (example: " titanium silicalite zeolite catalyst") but NOTHING about silicatite other than as a typo regarding silicalite. There are a couple of sellers online who have purchased this and made it into jewelry and selling it as "silicatite."

I contacted the etsy wholesaler weeks ago and asked what this material specifically is, and received a response many weeks later stating it's "a coated gemstone" but nothing more.  Odd that there was no explanation as to where it was mined, what it is, NOTHING, just that it's a "coated gemstone".  I sent an email to the other seller (an online shop) and am awaiting a response--I don't expect to ever receive one.  Until I can confirm that this is an actual gemstone, for example that it's Sillimanite,  (It looks a lot like "silverite"--see below.)  I don't consider this to be a legit gem, and it could possibly be glass or some sort of created stone, or something like sillimanite but has been given a different name.
Strangely, there are two entirely different-looking "silicatite" gems for sale.  One type looks like a brownish or blue-brown mottled stone (or glass bead?) with maybe a clear (?) coating and sold as rondelles, and the other "silicatite" is sold as faceted pears with a silvery or blue-ish metallic coating.  I'm not sure if it's due to photography differences, as these are two different sellers.  Either way, there is no gem by this name anywhere---except for those sellers.

"SILVERITE"

July 1, 2016 - I had 3 samples of "silverite" examined by a certified gemologist.  If you read my blog or even shop on Etsy, you will see "Silverite" jewelry for sale---yet each seller seems to have their own description of what it is; i.e., "white sapphire", "pearlized Corundum", "Diamond Coated Quartz" etc.  (Read HERE.)   This gemologist examined the 3 separate pieces of this "Silverite" using various tests, including microscopic examination and other tests. She found no indication that any of these were minerals, but were all GLASS with a coating, some sort of pearlescent paint or coating.  She is a professional jeweler, a certified gemologist with one of the world's largest and most well-known and well-respected gemstone suppliers----and she never even heard of "silverite" and consulted with others in her field--and they never heard of "silverite" either.  (I showed her listings on Etsy and she was shocked.) She examined three separate pieces from 3 different sellers, and determined that ALL WERE COATED GLASS.  These are NOT "corundum" or "sapphire" or "quartz" or any sort of gemstone or mineral AT ALL.  PERIOD.  Silverite is a FRAUD. Beware.

UPDATE August 2016----someone contacted me to insist that their strands of pink silverite have been tested and CONFIRMED to be corundum (sapphire)!  The big problem with this is so obvious:  why would anyone sell genuine, precious pink sapphire gemstones as "silverite" or by any other mysterious name?  That would be like selling precious Muzo emeralds as "Muzite" or genuine precious diamonds as "Glitzite" or something----NO ONE WOULD DO THAT!  And beyond that, the gemstone dealer in India who claims to mine these silverite stones, told me that these are "NOT corundum" but are a "new gemstone" that is "uncoated and untreated".   Yet, I still haven't had any of this silverite material tested and confirmed to be anything OTHER than coated glass.  So the idea that these are sapphires is ridiculous.

UPDATE March 2017 - another seller from India is now marketing this "silverite" as "Sillimanite" on their Etsy shop page.  I've also received a couple of emails (probably from these same people) telling me that silverite is the same thing as Sillimanite.  Well, that's not exactly true---there is STILL no such gemstone registered anywhere as "Silverite".  Strangely, sillimanite is considered to be a collector's gem, and can be very pricey.  I would think if this Sillimanite is being sold, it should be sold as what it is---Sillimanite.  To call it silverite is not a good marketing idea.  Reminder: all of the silverite I've had tested---ALL----has been glass.  I have not had this new sillimanite tested.


SCOROLITE
This material is sold, mostly on Etsy, as "Scorolite Opal".  There is NO SUCH GEM as Scorolite Opal, or Scorolite, at all.  I've posted about this gem in 2015 HERE, and now it seems Etsy sellers are calling this "Scapolite".  Scapolite is a genuine gemstone. Scorolite is not.  The two are not related.  Most of this "scorolite" looks to be glass.  It's possibly quartz, or silica quartz (glass).  But...IT'S NOT A GEMSTONE!

TURQUOISE
June 4, 2018:  Of course, turquoise IS a genuine gemstone!  However, there are a lot of fakes in the marketplace----everything from "yellow turquoise" (jasper) to "buffalo white" (howlite or magnesite) to vibrant rainbow colored "turquoise" stones (dyed howlite), to composite turquoise (which actually IS turquoise).  I've written about this separately, and HERE is a link to my post about this. 

ANDARA CRYSTAL 

Wow---this slag glass is being sold as a "crystal" with mysterious and magical powers.  Slag glass is just simply glass that is left over from manufacturing, and is found in all sorts of sizes of these chunks of glass, and in various colors.  It is JUST GLASS.  Sometimes, sellers on Etsy and Ebay appear to be selling chunks of broken glass, maybe bottles or something like that.  There are also pieces of glass that are sold to be used in fireplaces and outdoor gardens that are also being used in jewelry and sold as "Andara Crystal."  

THIS IS NOT A CRYSTAL.  THIS IS NOT A MINERAL.  THIS IS NOT A GEMSTONE.
This is simply GLASS.
Please---buyer beware!!

FAKE QUARTZ 


  • Cherry Quartz 
  • Blueberry Quartz
  • Pineapple Quartz
  • Strawberry Quartz 
 These "fruit" quartz stones are actually GLASS with swirling colors inside the glass.  Please note that fruity "Lemon Quartz" is an actual gemstone.  Sometimes, genuine quartz with encapsulated red Hematite needles (sometimes referred to as "Lepidocrocite" which is also false) is sold as Strawberry Quartz. From mindat.org to describe genuine Strawberry Quartz:  "Pinkish to amethystine quartz containing microscopic hair-like or tabular red crystals of hematitite" and these appear to be deep watermelon-colored quartz crystals with sparkling "hair" inclusions.  See here for pictures of genuine strawberry quartz.
  • Opalite, Opal Quartz, Sea Opal, Opal Moonstone, or sometimes just Moonstone

    Opalite GLASS
Just because the word "Opal" is in the name Opalite doesn't mean it's any form of Opal!  This is simply GLASS, and can be found at such places as Michael's craft store where it is sold as "Opalite Glass" -- at least they're honest!  There are a LOT of sellers hawking opalite on Ebay and Etsy under the guise of "Moonstone" and other misleading names.  Opalite is not a form of quartz, it's not an opal or a moonstone or any type of gemstone----it's just glass.  I've written about this a LOT on my blog.
  • Tangerine Quartz

    Tangerine Quartz: Mystic coated?
I haven't been able to determine if this is a real quartz, perhaps treated, a more "orange" color of citrine, or if it's just a coated quartz ("sunset" or "Tangerine Aura") or if it's glass.  I haven't found any tests that were run on this yet, so I can't say for sure.  There is a lot of misinformation about this, some obviously coated crystals, but some crystals clusters that appear to have an orange color within the stone. 
  • Mystic Aura Coated Quartz Crystals

    Mystic Quartz? Looks like Glass to me!!
Many of these quartz crystals are actual quartz crystals that are coated in various metals like titanium and gold to produce beautiful rainbow-like effects.  However, there are LOTS of these mystic aura crystals that are nothing more than coated GLASS, mostly coming from China.  Not all of these crystals from China are glass, and it's very hard to tell (especially online), but if the prices are very low (like on Alibaba) then they most probably are coated glass.  Ebay has a large number of sellers from outside the USA who are selling these pastel-colored coated crystals in colors like lavender and peach and seafoam and turquoise-blue, very pretty---but not necessarily genuine Quartz crystals.  I bought a few strands of these pastel crystals, had them examined by a gemologist, and they were ALL glass.   I bought some titanium coated crystals and they were quartz.   So it's hit or miss.  Be careful when buying these!
  • Fake Rutilated Quartz and Fake Tourmalinated Quartz

    Phony Glass "Rotayti" - In Black and Green!
Found all over the internet, lots of this obvious glass material with "confetti" or scratches and bubbles inside, on Ebay and on Etsy.  One big giveaway is that it is sold as "Rotayti" which is a name that doesn't even exist.  It's obviously a mangled version of the word Rutile or Rutilated, and Etsy sellers (who don't even make the jewelry but buy it from China or India, sadly) just pass along this "Rotayti" as though it's some gemstone!  Wow!  These are terrible looking fakes.  Nothing is found in nature that looks like that!!  Here are the real quartz gems:


Rutilated Quartz is a natural gem---clear quartz with encapsulated "needles" of Rutile (Titanium Dioxide), in golds, browns, or reddish colors.  Often looks like strands of golden hair.



Tourmalinated Quartz is a natural gem---clear quartz with encapsulated "needles" of Tourmaline, usually black but sometimes green.





  • Hydro Quartz

    "Paraiba" HydroQuartz?
Yes, there are actual man-made "hydroquartz" stones that have the same physical, chemical and optical properties as natural quartz---in other words, they are synthetic quartz stones (Amethyst and Citrine). However, a HUGE number of these so-called "hydroquartz" stones being sold today are nothing more than GLASS.   Glass is non-crystalline, whereas minerals have crystal structure.  I have only seen these "hydroquartz" stones, fashioned into briolettes and pears and cushion cut stones and many other shapes, sold on strands or in pairs, online, or sometimes at gem shows---NEVER at reputable jeweler wholesalers, such as Rio Grande Jewelry.    I have personally purchased hydroquartz stones from various sellers online  and have had them examined and tested by a gemologist, and sad to say---all were glass, NONE were quartz.  Personal communications with the GIA have also confirmed that only testing will reveal if these are glass, or quartz.  I hate seeing these stones sold with HIGHLY misleading names, such as "London Blue quartz" or "Tanzanite quartz" or "Paraiba Quartz" which are the names of actual gemstones.  To me, this is beyond "creative marketing" and is designed to fool buyers into thinking they're getting London Blue Topaz or Paraiba Tourmaline.  So be careful when buying this "hydro quartz". 

 GOLDSTONE, BLUE GOLDSTONE, MIDNIGHT GOLDSTONE, SUN SITARA,  STELLARIA, GALAXY STONE, BLUE SANDSTONE


These are spectacularly beautiful GLASS stones, in deep blue or coppery gold, and sometimes green and purple.  They are absolutely man-made, not gemstones, and are made in a controlled environment with copper and cobalt oxides, and form beautiful and sparkling crystals which are captured within this very hard glass.  This glass can be faceted and carved into various shapes.  Gorgeous stones, but beware of any seller who claims this is a gemstone!  It is only a type of Venetian glass.  I've written a lot about this in my blog.

I just saw someone selling this as "Blue Sandstone", saying it's a natural gemstone with all sorts of metaphysical properties, "composed of quartz or feldspar because these are the most common minerals in the Earth's crust. The sand inside creates the blue color. For this reason, this substance is named "Blue sandstone."  WHAT?  That's just completely random nonsense, like words just strung together!  (Blue sand??)  This person obviously copied/pasted Wikipedia's description of the real sandstone...except for the blue part, which they made up.  There is NO sand inside this stone, it's not made of quartz or feldspar (??), and it's just simply the man-made Venetian glass called Blue Goldstone.  WOW.

SANDSTONE, BLUE SANDSTONE, SANDSTONE QUARTZ


So-called "Sandstone" which is actually glass Goldstone
I've so astonished at how MUCH of this is being sold now that I wanted to give this "sandstone" it's own section here.  There are pages and pages of this being sold on Etsy as a "gemstone" called "Sandstone" or  "Blue Sandstone" and it's even listed as a form of Quartz!  On Etsy, if you search for "sandstone", there are over 2,100 listings for jewelry and over 950 listings for supplies, with featured listings of this NON-sandstone material.
Real Sandstone--No Glass or Sparkles

This is still just a glass called Goldstone or Blue Goldstone (see the post above).  Of course there is a stone called "sandstone" but that's NOTHING like this Venetian glass that's filled with sparkles.  Every seller from China or India as well as in the US seems to have a new "creative" name for this material.  One year it's "Galaxy Stone", the next it's "Sun Sitara", and now it seems to be Sandstone. Whatever you call it, or claim it to be, it's still NOT quartz or any type of "sandstone" or any sort of stone or mineral at all.  EVER.  There is no "sand" inside it.   It's man-made Italian glass.

There is a seller from India who, although describing this as "Lab Sandstone" (which is only half-right---it is made in a lab!), goes on to describe it like this: "Sandstone has a beautiful glittering sunlight effect as a result of its tiny metallic inclusions (millions of particles playfully interact with light). This feature is known as "Schiller" or "Aventurescence"."  Again, they're half-right!  It is beautiful and glittering with tiny metallic particles, but it is NOT Schiller or Aventurescence.  Those are terms used to describe shimmering or glittering effects in GEMS--not man-made glass.

"MAGNETIC HEMATITE" OR HEMALYKE

This is an artificial magnetic material called hematine, not a gemstone, and is commonly seen in jewelry.  It's referred to as "Hemalyke" or "Hemalike" as well as "Magnetic Hematite".
Carved Victorian Hematite Brooch

There is a genuine mineral called Hematite that ranges in color from red to brown ("bloodstone"), and metallic dark grey, steel grey,  and black.






Lepidocrocite

Hematite in quartz---NOT Lepidocrocite
The red formations you see inside so-called "Lepidocrocite" are actually hematite crystals within quartz.  (Lepidocrocite is an actual mineral, but is not the commonly-seen stone as pictured.) Although quartz with hematite crystals is an actual gemstone, it is not "lepidocrocite" which is a very common misnomer.  There are no known quartz stones with lepidocrocite inside--it's always hematite.

Here is a picture of genuine lepidocrocite:

Actual Lepidocrocite crystals













RAINBOW CALSILICA


This colorful, banded stone was marketed a few years back as a "mined gemstone" found in Mexico.  Still today, some people are claiming it's mined, or it's "a mystery--is it real or not?" which is a way to generate interest in this colorful stone.  But testing has conclusively revealed that this is just an assembled manmade stone that is basically layers of pigments, resin, clay, polymers, etc. that is assembled into pressed slabs and then polished and marketed as Rainbow Calsilica.  There is NO QUESTION---two world-renowned labs have tested this, and it is absolutely not mined, not found in nature.  You can read one of the reports yourself:  http://www.ssef.ch/uploads/media/2003_Kiefert_Rainbow_Calsilica.pdf

CREATED DIAMONDS 

Apollo Cultured Created Diamonds

Although there are a few facilities around the world that actually create diamonds in a lab (synthetic diamonds, or "cultured diamonds"), these diamonds are pretty expensive (almost the cost of a natural diamond) and must have a laser engraving in the stone's girdle to indicate that it is, in fact, a created man-made diamond.  These are beautiful and flawless, and definitely NOT blood diamonds, but they are pricey.

  • NOTE:  A lot of people don't understand the difference between "synthetic" and "simulated" gemstones, and think they're the same thing.  No!  In the jewelry world, "synthetic" means man-made, or grown in a lab, but it has the same chemical, physical and optical properties as its natural counterpart.  So a "synthetic" ruby is a ruby, only lab-created.  A "simulated" stone means that only looks like another stone.  It doesn't have any of the physical or chemical properties.  A crystal is a diamond simulant--it only looks like a diamond.  So is a Cubic Zirconia (CZ).  A red CZ can be a ruby simulant.  So a synthetic gem and a simulated gem are two very different things!

Some sellers are offering CZ (Cubic Zirconia) jewelry, and are calling these "created diamonds".  This is fraudulent and against the FTC rules.  A CZ is actually a simulated diamond, NOT a created diamond.  CZs are lab-created stones, that are the best diamond simulants---they look nearly identical to a flawless, colorless diamond.  But they are NOT created diamonds.  That term is only to be used on lab-grown diamonds---that possess the same chemical (Carbon) and physical properties of a natural diamond, as well as optical properties.

I'm not sure if sellers who try to sell CZs as "created diamonds" are just misinformed (trying to give the benefit of a doubt!), or are trying to deceive the public into thinking their "created diamond ring" is somehow better and more valuable than a high-quality CZ.  (There are different grades of CZs.)
Moissanite on Left, Cultured Diamond on Right

By the way, like the inexpensive CZ, Moissanite is also a diamond simulant.  It is ALWAYS lab-created.  These stones are marketed as that they are "found in meteorites" but that's misleading.  If you gathered ALL of the actual moissanite ever found on Earth, you wouldn't have enough to make a tiny pair of earrings.  So Moissanite is grown in a lab, making this a synthetic stone.  It is double-refractive and often has a more "green" shift than diamonds.  Because of a great marketing effort, prices for this man-made stone are kept high.

FAKE EMERALDS, SAPPHIRES, RUBIES


There has been a FLOOD of phony precious gemstones from India, in particular.  You can find these all over Ebay (and Etsy).  These are large stones set in jewelry, such as necklaces, supposedly in Sterling Silver (but often it's just silver plated mystery metals), and can be found for unbelievably cheap prices.  For example, here is an "emerald" necklace on ebay right now, for $6.66:
Dyed Sillimanite - not Emerald


These types of stones have been tested and it is revealed that it is actually dyed sillimanite.   Sillimanite is a mineral, fibrous, that "takes" color easily.  It is a member of the same family as Kyanite.

I've written about this in my blog HERE. 




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Gemstones have been coveted throughout history, and there have been gem fakes and frauds for thousands of years.  Sometimes one gem was mistaken for another (such as the huge "Ruby" in the Crown Jewels of England, which turned out to be a huge Red Spinel gem).

But with today's technology, there are more and more fakes flooding the marketplace, and these fakes are getting harder and harder to discern.  Not too long ago, major jewelry companies and department stores were facing fraud lawsuits regarding rubies that were more leaded glass than gem!  And gemstones are treated with various methods, such as heat, irradiation, oiling, fissure filling, and other methods to enhance or even change the colors of the gemstones, or make them appear clearer with fewer flaws.  A lot of these enhancements are accepted as "normal" within the jewelry industry.  But it's important for jewelers to disclose any enhancements to the buyer.